One of our favourite less usual variant of an ally shrimp, this pattern combines Alastair Gowans much loved creation with a Salmon classic the red butt.
This article is part two of our two part step by step for this tying a black ally shrimp. In this video we are getting creative with tube fly weighs and shapes with a twist on the materials using the longest guard hair from North American Opossum Pelt and wild boar bristles in the tail, propped up by a silver cone.
Materials: 0:15 Fl.Red 3mm plastic tube 0:25 Black 1.8mm plastic tube 0:47 Silver 6mm hybrid cone brass 1:01 Black 13mm US tube brass 1:15 Black FF 200++ tying thread 1:32 Silver mach II flatbraid 1:42 Black mach II flatbraid 1:56 Black North American Opossum pelt 2:20 Black FF star flash 2:44 Red FF wild boar 4:58 Red GP tippet 6:03 Black FF rooster saddle 7:20 Silver 6mm UFO disc brass
Tools: FF Tube vice FF Tube vice needle medium FF Standard Bobbin FF Hackle Tool FF Lightweight scissors FF Multi needle
Step by step:
Step 1: Melt a small butt at the end of the 3mm outer tubing, this will create a larger surface area to sit up against the cone.
Step 2:Melt a small burr at the end of the 1.8mm tubing cut to length and then slide into the outer tubing at the end with the burr. The liner tube burr should grip inside the outer tube.
Step 3: Add some super glue to the liner tube then slide on a silver 6mm hybrid cone and push tight to the outer tube.
Step 4: Add some more super glue in front of the cone then slide on a black 13mm US brass tube and push tight up to the silver cone.
Step 5:Both metal parts will still feel a little loose while the glue cures, so to secure everything in place tie in your thread in front of the metal tube and push wind back as tight as you can to push all the parts together tight, then wrap your thread up unto the US tube and back to the cone.
Step 6: next tie in a silver Mach II flatbraid the full length of the metal tube for the ribbing and then tie in a black Mach II flatbraid which we will use for our body, wind right back to the cone.
Step 7: Next tie in some black north american opossum pelt wrapping tight to the cone which will flair the materials up over the rear of the tube.
Step 8: Take 2 strands of black star flash using the black krinkle and holographic silver flash strands, tie them in half way on one side of the wing fold back and tie in again on the other side of the wing so they sit in a v shape with the wing.
Step 9: Next using 2 wild boar bristles tie in either side of the wing so that the bristles curve upwards and away from the fly.
Step 10: Next wrap the black flatbriad the full length of the body and finish on the liner tube in front of the metal tube. Use tight overlapping turns.
Step 11: Take the silver flatbraid and twist hard to create a fat super strong ribbing for the body, the make equal turns over the body and finish in front of the tube again.
Step 12: Using a larger GP tippet feather, tie down across the barbs tight to the end of the body to kick up the wing, then pull on the stem of the feather gently until the barbs come together into a neat uniform shape and trim away as clean as possible ready for the hackle.
Step 13: Tie in a black rooster saddle hackle looking for a nice mix of shiny and semi soft barbs and make 3-6 turns of the feather until you are happy with how it looks.
Step 14: Next add a little super glue to the liner tube and push on a silver 6mm UFO disc tight up to the hackle, I like to use the future fly hackle tool to do this. you can push in hard without getting glue on your fingers and into the hackle fibres.
Step 15: Remove the fly from the vice and trim the tubing away about 2-4mm from the disc, then melt the plastic down with a lighter, I like to get the plastic quite hot so that I can push it hard against a flat surface, this makes the fly super secure. It will close the head so use a nice sharp dubbing needle to push back into the tube to reopen the hole.